Chardonnay is a green-skinned grape variety used to make excellent white wine. It has often been said that Chardonnay is a white wine masquerading as a red wine due to its affinity to be integrated with wood. It is believed to have originated in the Burgundy wine region of eastern France but is now grown wherever wine is produced, from England, South Africa, Chile and the US to New Zealand. For new and developing wine regions, growing Chardonnay is seen as a `rite of passage' - easy segue into the international wine market. The Chardonnay grape itself is very neutral, with many of the flavours commonly associated with the grape being derived from such influences as terroir and oaking. The cultivar is vinified in many different styles, from the elegant, `flinty' wines of Chablis to rich, buttery Meursaults and New World wines with tropical fruit flavours. Chardonnay is an important component of many sparkling and Method cap Classic wines around the world, including Champagne. As peak in popularity in the late 1980s, Chardonnay gave way to a backlash among those wine drinkers who saw the grape as a leading negative component of the globalization of wine. Nonetheless, it remains one of the most widely-planted grape varieties, with more than 400 000 acres (175 000 hectares) worldwide, second only to Airen amongst white wine grapes and planted in more wine regions than any other grape, including Cabernet Sauvignon. For much of its history, a connection was assumed between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir or Pinot Blanc. In addition to being found in the same region of France for centuries, ampelographers noted that the leaves of each plant have near-identical shape and structure. Pierre Galet disagreed with this assessment, believing that Chardonnay was not related to any other significant gape variety. Modern DNA fingerprinting research at University of California, Davis, now suggests that Chardonnay is the result of a cross between the Pinot and Gouais Blanc (Heunisch) grape varieties. It is believed that the Romans brought Gouais Blanc from the Balkans and it was widely cultivated by peasants in Eastern France. The Pinot of the French aristocracy grew in close proximity to the Gouais Blanc, giving both grapes ample opportunity to interbreed. Since the two parents were genetically distant, many of the crosses showed hybrid vigour and were selected for further propagation. These `successful' crosses included Chardonnay and siblings. South African Chardonnays: Due to quarantine restrictions, plant cuttings were often smuggled into South Africa during the 1970s and 1980s and many times were misidentified as to what grape variety the type really was at the time. A large portion of the Chardonnay plantings from this period turned out to be Auxerrois Blanc - a similar event happened in the German wine region of Baden during the 1980s. By the late 1990s, efforts to promote `authentic' Chardonnay helped to increase plantings and by 2004 the cultivar was the third most widely planted white wine grape after Chenin Blanc and Colombard. Winemakers in the Western Cape have experimented blending Chardonnay with Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Winemaking: Chardonnay lends itself to almost any style of wine making from dry still wines, to sparkling wines to sweet late harvest and even botrytis wines (though its susceptibility to other less favourable rot makes these wines rarer). The two winemaking decisions that most widely affect the end result of a Chardonnay wine is whether or not to use malolactic fermentation and the degree of oak influence used for the wine. With malolactic fermentation (or MLF), the harder malic acid gets converted into the softer lactic acid, which creates the `buttery-ness' that is associated with some styles of Chardonnay. The wines that do not go though MLF will have greener apple like flavours. Oak can be introduced during or after fermentation in the form of the barrel aging.  Depending on the amount of charring that the oak was treated with, this can introduce a `toastiness' and flavours that many wine drinkers mistake as a characteristic of the grape itself. These flavours can include caramel, cream, smoke, spice, coconut, cinnamon, cloves and vanilla.   Other winemaking decisions that can have a significant effect include the temperature of fermentation and what time, if any, that the wine is allowed to spend aging on the lees. Burgundian winemaking tends to favour extended contact on the lees and even `stirring up' the lees within the wine while it is aging in the barrel in a process known as bâttonage. Colder fermentation temperatures produce more `tropical' fruit flavours like mango and pineapple. The `Old World' style of winemaking favours the use of wild or ambient yeast, though some winemakers will also use specially cultivated yeast that can impart aromatic qualities to the wine. A particular style of yeast used in Champagne is the Prise de Mousse that is cultivated for use world wide in sparkling Chardonnay wines. A potential drawback of using wild yeast is that the fermentation process can be very slow with the results of the yeasts being rather unpredictable and producing potentially a very different style of wine each year. One Burgundian winemaker that favours the use of only wild yeast is Domaine des Comtes Lafon, which had the fermentation of its 1963 Chardonnay batch take five years to complete when the fermentation process normally only takes a matter of weeks. The time of harvesting is a crucial decision because the grape quickly begins to lose acidity as it ripens. For sparkling wine production, the grapes will be harvested early and slightly unripe to maintain the acid levels. Sparkling Chardonnay based wines tend to exhibit more floral and steely flavours in their youth. As the wine ages, particularly if it spends significant time on lees, the wines will develop `toasty' characteristics. Chardonnay grapes usually have little trouble developing sugar content, even in cooler climates, which translates into high potential alcohol levels and limits the need for chaptalization. On the flip side, low acid levels can be a concern, which make the wine taste `flabby' and dull. Winemakers can counteract this by adding tartaric acid in a process known as `acidification'. In cooler climates, the extract and acidity of Chardonnay is magnified, which has the potential of producing rather concentrated wines that can develop through bottle aging.   Due to the `malleability' of Chardonnay in winemaking and its ability to reflect its terroir, there is not one distinct universal `style' or set of constants that could be applied to Chardonnay made across the globe. According to Jancis Robinson, a sense of `smokiness' is one clue that could be picked up in a blind tasting of Chardonnay but there are many styles that do not have any `smokey' notes. Compared to other white wine grapes like Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Viognier, Chardonnay has a more subtle and muted nose with no overwhelming aromatics that jump out of the wine glass. The identifying styles of Chardonnay are regionally based. For example, pineapple notes are more commonly associated with Chardonnay from Napa Valley while Chablis will have more notes of green apples. While many examples of Chardonnay can benefit from a few years of bottle aging, especially if they have high acidity, most Chardonnays are meant to be consumed whilst they are young.   Chardonnay in the vineyard Chardonnay grapes have a wide-ranging reputation for relative ease of cultivation and ability to adapt to different conditions. The grape is very `malleable', in that it reflects and takes on the impression of its terroir and winemaker. It is a highly vigorous vine, with extensive leaf cover, which can inhibit the energy and nutrient uptake of its grape clusters. Vineyard managers counteract this with aggressive pruning and canopy management. When Chardonnay vines are planted densely, they are forced to compete for resources and funnel energy into their grape clusters. In certain conditions the vines can be very high-yielding, but the wine produced from such vines will suffer a lowering of quality if yields go much beyond five or six tons per hectare. Producers of premium Chardonnay limit yields to less than half this amount. Harvesting time is crucial to winemaking, with the grape rapidly losing acidity as soon as it ripens. Some viticultural hazards include the risk of damage from spring time frost, as Chardonnay is an early-budding vine, usually a week after Pinot noir. To combat the threat of frost, a method developed in Burgundy involves aggressive pruning just prior to flowering. This `shocks' the vine and delays flowering for up to two weeks, which is often long enough for warmer weather to arrive.  Millerandage and coulure can also pose problems, along with powdery mildew attacking the thin skin of the grapes. Because of Chardonnay's early ripening, it can thrive in wine regions with a short growing season and in regions like Burgundy, will be harvested before autumn rain sets in and brings the threat of rot. While Chardonnay can adapt to almost all vineyard soils, the three it seems to like most are chalk, clay and limestone, all very prevalent throughout Chardonnay's traditional `homeland'. The grand crus of Chablis are planted on hillsides composed of Kimmeridgian marl, limestone and chalk. In South Africa for example, regions with stonier, shaley soils and high clay levels tend to produce lower-yielding and more Burgundian-style wine, despite having a discernibly warmer climate than France. In contrast, South African Chardonnay produced from more sandstone-based vineyards tends to be richer and weightier.   Flavour profile:  Chardonnays boast an impressive range of flavours from the expected buttered, oak overtones to the fresh, fruit flavors of apple, pear, tropical, citrus and melon, leaving a lasting palate impression.   Food pairing: Chardonnay will pair well with poultry dishes, pork, seafood or recipes that have a heavy cream or butter base. Also consider pairing un-oaked Chardonnay with guacamole, garlic, salads, grilled shrimp or even curry dishes. Now to my selection 1) Thierry & Guy Fat Bastard 2009: Alcohol 13.0% R48.99 at Pick `n Pay. Fat Bastard is the brainchild of Guy Anderson and Thierry Boudinaud and was established in 1995 with wine made by Thierry in the Languedoc region of France. Guy and Thierry created Fat Bastard almost by accident. It started out as an experiment Thierry had been doing in the back of his cellar, leaving a barrel `on the lees' (yeast cells). He didn't know what to expect, but when the friends tried the wine, Thierry exclaimed “Now zat iz what you call eh Phet bast-ard!” This very English expression perfectly described the wine's wonderful colour and round, rich palate, so that's what they called it. Since 1995, Guy and Thierry have been careful to maintain the quality of the wine and have now reached a plateau in the premium grapes available in the South of France, hence the birth of a South African Fat Bastard Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz. Description: Full, rich and ripe with some pretty serious oak treatment. The cultivar displays all of the qualities of its French big brother and is blended from the best wines of ultra- ripe harvest. This is a Chardonnay with intense fruit flavour and real character utilising quality grapes. All fruit was harvested in the early hours and the berries pressed whilst the grapes were still cool to retain aroma and flavour. The wine was tank fermented with an element of `quercus fragmentus' which added greater weight and complexity. Features are classic ripe, rich butter and tropical fruit on the nose and soft, well integrated vanilla on the palate.   2) L'Aveniur Chardonnay 2008: Alcohol 14.0% R55.79 at Bootleggers This cellar is situated in the heart of the Stellenbosch wine lands. Colour bright greenish yellow. This wine has a fresh lime and ripe peach character with hints of mineral aromas. Full flavoured and well balanced with an elegant touch of oak. 3) Groote Post Chardonnay 2009: Alcohol 14.0% R66.69 at Bootleggers Groote Post is an historic 18th century farm on the Cape's West Coast where winemaking traditions have been revived by the Pentz family. Unique aspects and cool climatic conditions of the Darling Hills yield superlative fruit. The wines are produced to reflect the uniqueness of the vineyards. This typical flinstone mineral unwooded Chardonnay from the Darling Hills is packed with marmalade and ginger flavours. The wine has an appealing citrus aspect with a lively acid structure and great length. The winemaker believes that his Chardonnay is one of the best examples of this style in South Africa. 4) Louisvale Chardonnay 2007: Alcohol 12.5% R57.17 at Bootleggers Louisvale's reputation for quality is built on its Chardonnay. No fewer than 11 successive vintages have been selected for the annual Nederburg Auction - an unsurpassed record for Chardonnay and proof of their wine's superior status. Louisvale Cellar Master Simon Smith says: “We are winemakers and not carpenters and our Chardonnays reflect terroir characteristics that are well supported by effective wood management”. A fine balance of ripe fruits and French oak this wine offers hints of butterscotch, citrus and mango on the nose. Fermented and matured in French oak. 5) Rhebokskloof Chardonnay 2008: Alcohol 14.0% R 59.39 at Bootleggers The farm is situated in a terroir basin and specialises in award-winning Shiraz, as well as other handcrafted wines. The soil is formed mainly from decomposed granite as the farm lies on the slopes of the famous Paarl Rock Mountain. Nestled between two valleys, Rhebokskloof tends to be slightly cooler than nearby Paarl. It enjoys a cool microclimate making it perfect for the production of top quality wine grapes. Chardonnay and Viognier are the white wine grape cultivars planted on Rhebokskloof, while the red varietals are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. To boost production and choice, the vineyards are currently undergoing extensive uprooting and renewal. The winemaker, Rolanie Lotz who studied Agriculture at Elsenburg College after matriculating from Paarl Girls High School and completed a Diploma in Cellar Technology in 2001. She worked as the winemaker at Simonsvlei International before joining Rhebokskloof in 2007. Karin Louw, who works with Rolanie in the cellar, is also a well-qualified assistant winemaker. She has the same qualifications as Rolanie and plays an essential part in assisting her with the winemaking process. This is a medium-bodied wine with lots of citrus flavours and underlying buttered toast character obtained from the French oak barrels. 6) Uitkyk Chardonnay 2006: Alcohol 13.5% R67.99 at Bootleggers Having spent nine months in wood, this is an elegant wine with flavours of butterscotch, nuts and caramel as well as hints of citrus aromas.      7) Boschendal Chardonnay 2008: Alcohol 14.0% R69.09 at Bootleggers Boschendal is one of the oldest wine producers in the New World with a French viticultural heritage dating back to 1685. The Boschendal vineyards cover an area of 254 hectares. Geographically they extend for six kilometers along the slopes of the Groot Drakenstein Mountain towards the Dwarsriver, to the slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain. The annual rainfall varies between 1000 - 1250mm of which most is in the period June to September. This Chardonnay grows in mountainous soils under ideal conditions. Hand harvested grapes were pressed and fermented in a cool cellar environment to preserve the graceful citrus and tropical fruit flavours before some maturation in oak barrels providing the wine with a rich texture with elegant depth and buttery dimensions. 8) Backsberg Chardonnay 2007: Alcohol 14.0% R59.39 at Bootleggers The philosophy of Backsberg remains that of providing pleasure and enjoyment to a broad range of wine lovers by producing wines not only with structure and finesse, but with a high level of `drink ability'. This wine has hints of apricots, almonds and cream combine in a profusion of intense aromas - hallmarks of a Backsberg Chardonnay. These characters, balanced by fresh acidity, complete a palate that is long and powerful. Food Suggestions: Although, perfect as an aperitif, this flavour filled Chardonnay ideally matches seafood and cream based pasta dishes. 50% of the wine was barrel fermented for nine months.